Replacing Cabin Sole

Replacing Cabin Sole

Date: May 17, 2000
From: Jay Call jaycall@mediaone.net
I've read the exchange about the soles on E32's. Mine, Inner Prize, has just a plain fiberglass sole covered with carpet (which we recently replaced). I'm interested in putting down a teak and holly sole. Has anyone tried this? Anyone have any sources, or ideas? Cautions? Gosh, I just love projects!

Date: May 19, 2000
From: Mike Miller capnmike_s@yahoo.com
When I needed to re-do the sole on my E37, wanting to match what was there already, I found that Tile City was selling the teakwood parquet flooringthat Endeavour was famous for, in small square tiles, and at a good price.Simple glue-down and varnish job gave the boat a new floor.

Date: May 19, 2000
From: Sam Woolsey SamWoolsey@aol.com
Jay
If you are truly a person that enjoys projects, you certainly did the right thing in getting an older sailboat. Projects abound.

I don't have anything to offer about "Teak & Holly" soles, but have a future project in mind where I could use some "T&H" parquet to match that installed in my boat. Let me know if you find a source & how this project works out.

Date: May 20, 2000
From: Bradd Wilson marina@portcolborne.com
We installed a Teak & Holly cabin sole 2 years ago and are really pleased with the appearance but would probably do it a bit diferent if we did it again. We used one 4 x 8 sheet of inlaid veneer plywood about 1/8th inch thick from which the bilge hatches were cut out (these were cut slightly larger than the fiberglass covers to allow them to sit smoothly). A second sheet was required for the forward section so if the lumber yard will sell you a 1/2 sheet, get that. Because of the sloping sides we cut angled sections rather than try to bend the plywood too much. Due to the irregular shapes, I would recommend making a template using a roll of newsprint first, then cutting a big piece of cardboard with the edge pieces taped in place. When you're finally certain, that it will fit, cut the plywood.

To attach the plywood to the fibreglass, we used 3M 5200 but found that it takes soooooo long to set, that we ended up with some hollows or voids and couldn't do anything to fill them after the fact. A contact cement or epoxy might be better.

The appearance is really beautiful and worth the effort but you have to be really carefull since the wood is very expensive and patches would be obvious with the varying hues and allignment of the wood "stripes". Good luck

Date: May 20, 2000
From: George "Buzz" Segura LAMTBUZZ@aol.com
Hi jay
Working for a local marina had occasion to replace cabin sole on big biniteau. (misspelled?) Bet it would look better than carpet. What I was instructed to to was take up old 3/4 X 48" plywood vaneer with hollys. And reinstall new. Was told sheets cost $300.+ so dont make any mistakes !

Have about 20 years carpentry experience, house construction and repair. And generally have a "can do" attitude about most things. If you use this material might be a good idea to:

Layout centerline of cabin sole so holleys run straight. The eye can easly catch a quarter inch mistake and would most likely go crazy each time you go below.
A product of the 50's, I glue and screw everything. My helper was instructed to apply the finish, did not get into that part. I think he applied something like 10 coats of finish....did not ask what...but it really looked good!

At the moment I am making considerable repairs to a hurricane damaged 43 Endeavour. The sole is parquet glued to 3/4 plywood screwed to the stringers.

The parquet rectangles are coming loose as I remove sections of the sole. I have some strange idea that after the broken stringers are re glassed to the hull I am going to somehow glue the nine million pieces back on the plywood, sand down and apply suitable finish.......I also own a bridge in Brooklyn someone sold me!

Other considerations might be, consider the location of fittings below deck or additional access to the bildge you might desire and frame up (modify stringers) to accomplish same. Hope my input is of SOME help. Not an authority on boat construction, but getting my baptism of fire at this moment. Smooth sailing.

Date: April 23, 2007
From: Pat Fitzpatrick fitzpatrickrn@gmail.com
I see that these posts are rather old, but I will add my 2 cents. I worked for Endeavor in the 80’s and have installed lots of teak and holly in Irwins, Endeavors, Island Packets, etc:

Use patterns! Invest in some 1/8 inch “door skin” plywood and cut them loosely (within ½ inch) to fit in the space. Cover the entire area, from stem to stern. Nail them securely in place with brads. You will be walking around on these all day or week or whatever; nail them securely.
Take a pair of compass scribes and set them to 1 inch (see below). Tighten the wing nut on the scribe with a pair of pliers. It is critical that the distance does not change! Tracing the perimeter of the sole with the point of the scribes, scribe a line onto your patterns. Make the line dark, but fine. I use a #3 pencil. It keeps a point longer
Find the center of the beam, hopefully, this is a line that you will be able to draw from stem to stern, i.e., it will go through doorways. It is OK if it does not. With a chalk line, mark a continuous line on the patterns down the center of the boat. This is the reference line that you will use to line up your holly centerline. That should be a holly stripe that traverses the centerline, and getting this right separates the men from the boys. If your sole is on different levels, or you cannot travel the centerline with your eyes, it is not such a big deal to have a continuous holly strip down the whole sole, but you will get style points for doing this correctly. Remember: as long as it is perfect, it will be fine.
Using ¼ inch teak and holly veneered ply, lay out an outline of your sole on the floor of your shop. In areas where the sole is wider than 4 feet, take care to join the factory edge of the plywood by sanding or (light) planning. Anchor the T&H ply somehow, so that they will not slide around. Use weights, or whatever. Don’t damage the sole.
Paying careful attention to the centerline, take your patterns, and place them atop the new sole. Judiciously apply a few brads to attach the patterns to the sole, avoiding the holly. If you are confident, use some lead weights to anchor them instead.
REVERSE your scribes, so that the pointy end is now on the line you previously made; transfer that line to the new sole. If you do it correctly, you are transcribing the exact outline of the hull and bulkheads to your new sole. Bear in mind that the hull slopes, and the line you make represents a smaller space. You will need to either cut your soles a little larger at the hull line, or adjust your scribes a little bit wider.
Carefully cut your soles. Make them a bit bigger if you’d like, and use a belt sander or jigsaw to adjust the fit. We boat carpenters traditionally use a jigsaw, and we hold it upside down. This allows direct visualization of the blade and does not tear the wood as much. It is also extremely dangerous! Be careful. The best saw is the Bosch jigsaw with T-101B blades. Spend a hundred bucks and get one. I still have the one I bought in 1985 and it works well.
Bilge access covers are a little tricky. You can either measure them, or find a way to reach underneath and mark the bottom to cut out. Then, cut ½ inch off all 4 sides of the bilge cover. Using solid teak, make ¼ inch strips to trim the inside of the hole, and the outside of the bilge cover. Use your belt sander to adjust the fit. You want the cover to fit tight, but not too tight! And mind your Holly lines.
Glue the soles down, using brads to hold in place while your glue dries. Finish with a good quality sealer, and then a gloss varnish. Best if you can spray it on, but just try to do a quality job and it will look fine.
Remember those patterns? Save them as sole protectors. We applied a grid of rubber sticky tape to the bottom, and re-used them to protect new soles on the production line

Feel free to email me with ?’s.

R E P L Y