Topside Treatments
Date: May 25, 2001
From: Lawrence & Linda Mikoloff miklin37@earthlink.netLooking for some advice. I had my boat documented, so I had to put the name and home port on the stern. My boat is a '78 E37 and the stern looked kind of "dingy" so I painted the stern with West Marine polyurethane, one part. The results looked like an orange peel, not very smooth at all. I can't spray in the yard where I'm at and had to use a roller. Any way I can get the stern "smooth" before adding the lettering?
Date: May 25, 2001
From: Roy Canon RoyCanon@prodigy.netHi Mike,
Based on my experience, you are looking at a lot of work! The following suggestions are based on my experience last year while putting new lettering on the stern of my boat (E35 s/v Maiden America).Although I did not have to face orange peel in new paint, she did have very bad oxidation and some old residual lettering. I was able to solve my problem with wet sanding by hand using a sanding block and working through finer grades of wet/dry sand paper. I was able to start with 320-grit to get the really rough areas and finish with 600-grit. The wet sanding with 600-grit will produce an almost polished finish. Be sure to switch sanding directions by 90 degrees with each finer grade of sand paper.
The lettering was then applied and allowed to "cure" for several weeks. I then waxed the entire transom for added protection.
Because you are faced with the rougher orange peel surface, I would suggest you try both of the following techniques on small areas to see which may provide the best and easiest smooth surface prior to beginning the wet sanding process: (1) Use a random orbital sander with something like a 120 to 180-grit paper. You can probably rent such a sander if you do not own one or desire not to purchase one. I would suggest a sander that uses PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) disks instead of the hook-and-loop disks, because they are considerably less expensive. (2) Try hand sanding (either wet or dry) with a sanding block and paper of about 80 to 120-grit. With either technique, you will have to be very careful to not remove the entire coat of new paint. Once you settle on the best technique, remove the orange peel from the entire transom, and then begin the wet sanding process.
I hope this information helps. Good luck with the work...
Date: May 25, 2001
From: Rob Chamber rchamber@iname.comOrange peel is usually caused by poor surface prep or the top coat was not compatible with the base coat. You might try a primer/sealer then another top coat after sanding smooth. I have used a small roller with a paint brush to "tip off" the paint with good success.
Date: May 25, 2001
From: Peter & Marilyn Sicurella psic@rcn.comMike,
I have had great experience with Interlux Brightside one-part polyurethane. I use a roller and then I tip it using a badger brush to smooth out the paint (keep a wet edge). You can only tip it once. If need be you will correct the problem on the second coat. Also the trick is to get the paint so that it levels out but not sag. Put some paint in a container and then mix a cap full of thinner. Try it on a piece of clean glass (held vertically) to see how it levels out. It does not level out use another cap of thinner. If you used to much thinner and it sags then you need to add paint. Note Interlux has a new one-part called (I beliveve) Toplac.You can try to correct your present paint job by using rubbing compound. I would use a Microfinishing compound sold at West Marine item @ 431130. The problem you may have is that it take a while for the new paint to really get hard. Worth a try.
Date: May 26, 2001
From: Bradd & Maeve Wilson marina@portcolborne.comHi Mike,
You'll have to sand off the "orange peel" and start over. When applying the new paint, cut it with about 1/5th thinner. Roll on the paint and continue rolling til most of the "bubbles" are gone, then gently "tip" the finish with a good paint brush to remove orange peel. This takes time but its worth it
Date: May 26, 2001
From: Frank & Donna Boensch FDBASSOCIATES@compuserve.comMike,
We have an e-40 and I painted the non-skid on the boat. Based on the write up in Pracitcal Sailor, I used the Petit Easypoxy light grey with the particulate mixed in to give it a flat look. It has worked well for us. It has lasted about 5 years and is going strong. I used a roller and had no problems. I followed the directions to the letter. The only down side is that it took two coats, but I attribute this to the non-skid.
Date: May 26, 2001
From: Rick & Donna Cass bacchus42@earthlink.netMike, the orange peel is probably the consequence of paint on too thick. If so, try buffing it out with a wet compound, then use a mico, such as MMM Finesse-It II for a really smooth surface. Three times with the compound, then 2 with the micro compound.
Date: May 27, 2001
From: Carl Hibbard Chgypsy@aol.comMike,
If its orange peeled now anything you put on it will also do the same.Only way out that I know is to sand it down flush. This will look like the spotted leopard. ....Then "Roll and tipple" Roll the paint on but tipple it (spread it) with a brush. You'd be surprized how nicely it comes out. There are at least three books at our library describing this method. I did it with the boot stripes after Awlgrip.
Lets say you roll it vertically first roll, and horizontally second fill in roll, starting from Starboard. (a one foot strip). Then typically you would tipple from the left to the right. Ergo you are always dealing with the wettest paint, then the next strip etc etc.
Note: Do not go back and try to fix anything, that stuff sets up to quickly and you will leave ridges. Been there...had to sand it down in that area and it still doesn't look the same...course I know its there. If you goof give it another total roll and stiple coat.
Frankly as small as the stern is I would probably try two strips, upper (wider) lower narrower (where you needed more control)
Of course ! You can forget it all and put on the lettering ! Who's going to be able to tell once you are over 5 ft away.
Date: June 1, 2001
From: Jon Richards Endeav35@aol.comFor next time there is a method for "rolling on" such paints, I've done myself on my dinghy. First you roll on the paint then you smooth out the bubbles and roller texture with a fine brush. You'll be surprised how good the finish looks, sometimes as good as a spray job. Sail magazine did a feature on this method several years back. As always the prep work has a lot to do with the final finish. That's all there is to it, roll on then brush out as you go.
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