Painting spars
Date: December 2, 1998
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com
Yup..It would be low...I just bought a new main, so raising anything but capital is out. lol I'm replacing the reefing lines on the boom and the outhaul... they're shot. Any ideas on painting the boom ???? I've got all winter and a nice basement to shoot it in.....Thanks. Tom.
Date: December 2, 1998
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com
Tom,
I've been thinking about repainting our boom and mast. I'd suggest you get a book on the subject. I haven't done it but I know enough to practice my spraying technique and make sure that there isn't any dust in the air. Good ventilation and a respirator would also be on the list.
Date: December 3, 1998
From: John Bartoszek jbartosz@symbol.com
I painted my boom and mast (E40) about 4 years ago with Intelux 1 part polyurethane paint (white). I was carefull to thoroughly clean both parts. I did use a primer and sanded lightly after the primer. I brush painted both mast and boom. Both came out real nice and have held up well. The only problem I had was that I did get some blistering when I had the boat moved from Mass. to Fl. and they wrapped the mast in bubble wrap and completely sealed it with duct tape. (which is why you shouldn't shrink wrap a painted boat).
Date: December 3, 1998
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com
I've got a friend who did his last summer..outside...both masts and booms! I'll check with him, I think he used a very expensive paint after the prep...Hmmm. Tom.
Date: March 8, 1999
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com
I sanded the boom the other day after taking all the hardware off of it. It wasn't easy, since the screws had all become one with the mast. I will soon repaint the boom, then do the mast next year.
Question: Does anyone out there have a suggestion on the type of paint I might use? I plan to spray the boom, so the field is open. .......And do you know why I would find a 2 to 1 block assembly inside the boom? It was attached to the outhaul cable at one end, and the outhaul line at the other end, but was not used as anything. It was just in there all balled up. For years !!! Geez. That all for now.
Date: March 10, 1999
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com
Looking through my handy dandy repair books, I found that for painting aluminum spars that they recommend a two part polyurethane. Surface prep is the most important aspect where you need to make sure it is totally free of any type oxidation or waxy finish. If the spar is currently painted, they also recommend testing the paint for adhesion (with thinner) to see if it flakes off. If it does, you need to sand it all off. After cleaning, sanding with 600 grit - lengthwise along the spar - is necessary to provide a surface for the paint to bite to. It sounds like you can use a primer, or an epoxy resin as a primer or undercoat, but should be matched to the paint you use. The epoxy resin they say provides a flexible and tenacious undercoat for aluminum, but I'm not sure how widely it's used. You can spray or paint on the polyurethane. Let us know how it goes!
Date: March 18, 1999
From: Jim McMordie Jim_McMordie@gilbarco.com
The proper way to check for paint adhesion is to (using a razor blade) cut a series of slices thru the painted surface about 1/16" apart about 3/4" long.
Next cut a second set of slices at 90 degrees to the first set (a checkerboard pattern). Press a strip tape (don't remember the exact tape description but a good masking tape should suffice) firmly across the pattern. Remove the tape. There should be very little removal of paint. If there is lots of paint missing (several squares) you don't have good adhesion.
Date: May 4, 1999
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com
It's done !!! I painted the main boom. Here's the poop.
I sanded the boom w/ 220 grit wet/dry using my palm sander and a lot of sheets. I got 90+% of the old paint off. I had to put the new paint on within a few hours. I used the Interlux aluminum etching primer two part (501?) , thinned to the maximum... (40%). It went on really well w/ the brush, but I had to be really carefull to use light strokes and never go back over... It dries RIGHT NOW. I had a window of 1 hr. to 16 hrs. to set the pigmented coat on it. So I mowed the lawn and came back. I mixed the Interlux Nantucket White as directed and THEN reduced to the max. (40%). I brushed the coat on using the same light strokes and never went over the old for the same reason. I had the boom suspended in my garage, so doing the entire thing as a unit was not a problem. It hardened and was tacky very fast. I left the operation and returned the next morning. To my delight, the paint laid on the aluminun and droopped dead. No runs, no hits, and no sags! (just like the Cubs!) But very thin (good). Tomorrow I shall sand w/ 240 wet/dry and finish w/ a second coat. It really looks great, has a great hard finish, and shines superbly, w/ no brush strokes readily visible.
Date: May 14, 1999
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com
Hi Paul...... I finished painting the boom. Once it was sanded down to bare aluminum, I used Interlux 501 etching primer. It's a two part, but no problem to apply. A sprayer works best, but I used a brush. Follow the instructions, and watch for runs. Repair them within a 1/2 hour of application. The Interlux finish coats were also two part. They harden beautifully, and when the paint goes on ( by brush) it lays down and plays dead. No stroke marks, if you have a light touch. Follow the directions and viola ! Runs occur, so catch them within 1/2 hour of application. Don't go back over it if you don't need to. Sand out the "oops" and recoat after 16 hours. Three coats here, 'cause I put it on thin. Now I just need to figure out the lines.......
Date: August 16, 1999
From: gtyers@aol.com
2 years ago I stripped the boom down to bear metal and wiped it with an acid etch used to prep aircraft .Then primed with Zinc Chromate and then 3 coats of Appliance epoxy from the hardware store .The finish is rock hard and observe no signs deteriation. The real trick is preventing corrosive action around the stainless hardware used to reinstall the fittings. I used plummers joint compound on all treaded items and as part of my bi-annual maintenance remove all fitting to service Gooseneck, outhaul, and reefing. This prevents any problem with seized and corroded fasteners.
Date: October 3, 1999
From: Mike Miller capnmike_s@yahoo.com
Have had really good luck with automotive paint...I was going to do the job myself, but it became too much time and work, so I turned it over to a friend at an auto-body shop...they prepped it and sprayed it with automotive urethane, and it is not only great-looking, but should last many years...after all, the stuff is made to be out in weather, salt, etc.
Date: January 4, 2000
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com
I found this on the Ericson list-serv
As the 12 year owner of an E-35 Mk II #183, I had some problems with electrolysis where previous owner had attached cleats without Alumalast or other dielectric. Initial fix involved sanding, priming with zinc chromate and painting with Brightside one part polyurethane. This was temporary fix and seemed to work well. Eighteen months ago, I had mast unstepped, removed all hardware (spreaders, tangs, shrouds, winches, and cleats) and had mast primed and painted with two part linear polyurethane paint. Made boat look a whole lot better and seems to have solved problem, but it was not cheap (about $1,200 in San Diego) If you intend to keep boat for a long time, I would recommend it. It is a real pain getting hardware off if it was not protecrted from electrolysis due to aluminum mast and stainless screws. Alumalast or some silicone sealer will isolate the metals and prevent electrolysis. Don't fail to use it or something else that will work when you reinstall.
Ed Donnelly
NavEdD@aol.com
Solo, E35 Mk II #183
Date: April 1, 2000
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com
THE MAST IS ABOUT FINISHED..............one more coat of Interlux 2 part epoxy.... The 4 openings are cut in for the 3 internal halyards, and the wind system is ready to install. No GPS antenna needed topside. The holes are drilled for the spreader lights, and will prewire soon. Had to use an impact wrench and heat to get all the screws out ! The conduit mod was in by previous owner, and I'm ready o finish up. My good friend's E32 has the boom mod for the bimini. Raised it 4 or so inches. Need more info, let me know..... Now I need an assist..........There was an internal halyard fix for banging halyards using plastic wire ties and a length of cordage inside the mast. Does this ring any bells with you ?? Off to the paint store........Tom G.......Amanda Lynne.
Date: April 13, 2000
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com
Hi Paul .......I painted my mast as I did the boom last year. 2 part Interlux. This time I rolled it on, and used a brush just to tip it off. It came out great. 4 coats, plus the primer. Now I need to reattach all the fittings. I can say it was worth the work. The winch screws finally came free using a plumbing torch and an impact driver. The rivits needed drilling out, and all went well. Thanks for the site and all the help.
Date: August 20, 2000
From: Michael Gendel mgendel@worldnet.att.net
Tom,
I have used ties, 3, equally spaced. But I have used them on wires and the like. They quiet that real nice. I can't really see how you put cable ties on halyards that have to move up and down. Sorry.
Date: May 22, 2001
From: Daniel Kral Daniel.Kral@CEN.AMEDD.ARMY.MIL
Paul,
Reference the paint code for Endeavour 35 & 40 masts (Gray, Ditzler Dar 32663), this paint code is no longer used by DuPont, and unless the store has an old book to reference they will not be able to find it. I called DuPont HQ yesterday and had them reference that number/nomenclature with a new number. They provided me with the following: 72092. This new number does refernce to the proper color using their current coding system. Fair Winds!
Date: November 19, 2001
From: Michael Gendel mgendel@worldnet.att.net
Further Awlgrip is just fine. If you want to hand paint the mast, use Interthane by Interlux.
Two part polyurethane paints can be applied over any sanded epoxy regardless of which brand is used. If you want to save money you may want to research using an airless spray gun. You would need to ensure all the parts are compatible with the solvents used in the paints.
