E32 Repowering
Date: June 24, 2001 All you repowered E32ers - I've been reading that it's not a good idea to overpower using a diesel. That it should run at 80% capacity to ensure long life and reliability. What's your take on this? Date: June 26, 2001 I repowered my 1976 E32 in 1994 with a Westerbeke 30B three-cylinder 27 HP diesel, and it has been wonderful -- quiet, easy to maintain, and very powerful with a three-blade prop. I recommend that you look into this option. Date: June 26, 2001 Our 1982 E32 has the 3GM in it. It's rated 22.5hp at 3400rpm I believe. We cruise at 6 to 7 knts at 2500 to 2800 rpm in calms, 4 to 5 knots in heavy seas. I wouldn't say the 3GM is overpowered for the boat as you can see by our speed in weather. We have a 16"x12" 2-balde prop and am considering going down to a 15"x13" feathering prop to increase the hull-to-prop clearance and to reduce propwalk in reverse. I think they like to factor a 10-15% power loss when switching from fixed to feathering. If the 3GM will fit, I'd go with it. FYI: newer engines are smaller Date: June 27, 2001 The 20 hp Yanmar on our '79 E32 has been plenty of power for all our adventures. If repowering I'd try for 20 again rather than going up to 27. Date: July 2, 2001 My 1976 E32 has been repowered using a 24 hp, 3 cyl, Yanmar diesel. When the engine is turning about 2000 or more there is a rather strong pull to port, about 2-1/2 pounds to port at the wheel diameter. Other than that all works great. Date: July 2, 2001 Hi Paul, I'm Billy. Julie and I just finished a refit on our E-32 and we chose to go with the 27 hp Yanmar, because like you say it should run at 80% capacity to live long and prosper. We found we could get more power from the 27 without ever getting close to the upper limit on RPM's. This makes a big difference when you are caught in a storm and need that power. I can give you a for instance, we took our E-32 out in the fringe of a hurricane, and didn't come in until the lightning started dancing on the water. By that time the wind was up and we were trying to get into the slip with a cross wind. With the 27 it was a snap, we didn't even so much as rub a piling.I hope you get the same satisfaction from your's as we are getting from ours. Date: August 19, 2010 HI PAUL,
IT APPEARS I HAVE A REAR SEAL PROBLEM ON MY 2QM20H YANMAR. THAT IS IN MY 1980 32' ENDEAVOUR. Date: August 19, 2010 Tyler,
From: Paul Ness nesspa@nyc.rr.com
I'm having difficulty deciding whether it's a good idea to put the 18 or 27hp Yanmar engine in my 1976 Endeavour 32. The original 12hp was way too little and sounded a bit like "The African Queen."
From: David Read Barker drbarker@monitorinternational.org
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com
From: Bill Gillette William.Gillette@med.va.gov
From: Jim McMordie jim.mcmordie@marconi.com
From: Billy Vance and Julie Roberts Meadolninnn@aol.com
From: Tyler Mitchell
DOES ANYONE KNOW WHATS INVOLVED IN WRESTLING THE 400 LB ENGINE OUT OF ITS LITTLE CUBBY HOLE. I DO NOT THINK THERE IS EVEN ROOM FOR CHERRY PICKER. YET, I KNOW WHAT GOES IN WILL COME OUT. THANKS TYLER MITCHELL
From: Allen Murphy
I just replaced the original diesel (18 hp Yanmar, 2 cyl) in my 1979 E32 with a new 3YM20 Yanmar. This summer is my first with the new engine and it is great!
I took the pain in my wallet instead of doing it myself. I understand the shop had to remove my dodger and use a crane to lift out the old and set in the new engine. The new engine sat in the middle of my cabin for a while until they were ready to move it aft into the engine compartment. In other words, I think they shifted the old engine forward so they could get the lift chains around it, then lifted it up and aft out of the companionway. Then did the reverse, lowering the new engine down and forward into the cabin, then later shifting it aft into the engine compartment.
I believe they had to make minor adjustments to the motor mounts. In my case they also had to replace the propeller shaft and cutless bearing. While they were at it, I had them install a new dripless PSS Shaft Seal.
Sail Fast, Live Slow
Murph
From: Tommy Poppell
I have a 1980 32 Endeavour hull 532. I removed mine by reinforcing the boom with reg. 2X4, layed one on top of the boom to help take the stress off the boom, as well as loosen the boom lift line,then built a cradle under the boom with 2X4s in the shape of an X to reinforce it in the cockpit as well as the coach roof. Used some rags and carpet in areas to prevent scratching the boom and gel coat then used cheery picker to remove it from the cockpit to the dock, new engine went in the same way. A marine service company charged me 100 bucks each way in and out of the boat to swing the engine after hours.
Date: August 19, 2010
From: Karl Lyon
While in drydock, rent or buy an electric 1/2" drive impact wrench with extensions. Unless you have lots of time, or have access to air tools, this is best.
Disconnect, raw water, fuel, exhaust, DC power, shift and throttle cables.
Disconnect drive shaft.
Remove alternator to make room.
Remove all motor mount bolts except the 2 forward.
Move your boom out of the way of the hatch.
Borrow or buy an engine pulling bar and lifting chain. The best kind let's you hand crank the bracket angle.
With the lifting rig in place, contract a cherry picker, or large forklift by the hour.
Suporvise the lift yourself. Take tension, remove the last 2 mount bolts, adjust the angle and drag engine into the cabin by hand. The cherry picker does the rest.
A truck with a wooden pallet should be standing by or use a pallet next to the boat to place the engine.
Use wooden blocks under the engine.
Clean your engine room, change the bronze thru hulls, buy new engine mounts, drivesaver and water impeller from Globe, and paint your engine room.
http://www.henrysmith.com/globedrivesavers.htm drivesaver, impeller and mounts.
http://www.americastoolwarehouse.com/automotive-tools/OTC-4305.html Engine leveller
Good luck,
Karl
Dauntless
78-E32...Original 2qm20
Pensacola
Date: August 19, 2010
From: Jeff O'Rourke
I had mine worked on and had to use brute strength to wiggle it to the cabin. Then used a hiab to lift it out. Need 2 people one to watch and control the engine and one to control the hiab unit. 2X4s were handy for prying and sliding the engine.Just cut them into useful lengths.
Hiab is a small crane. Good Luck
Date: August 19, 2010
From: Kevin Coon
Greetings!
My diesel is also a Yanmar 2qm20, it fits through the companion way stairs openning.
It is a pretty simple job, it took me about 2 hours to get it out and into a trailer with one helper and about 4 hours (excluding hook ups and alignment) to put back in without help.
Close the through hulls.
Disconnect all of the wires and hoses.
Disconnect the prop shaft flange from the transmission and secure the shaft so that it stays fairly close to its original angle.
Take off the air intake, the alternator, oil pressure sender, starter, exhaust elbow, and anything else that makes the engine wider or taller.
The transmission can stay attached.
I did not drain the oil or transmission fluid.
Unbolt the L brackets that attach the engine to the motor mounts from the motor mounts.
I used a chain hoist and a come along attached to the main halyard for lifting, the engine weighs about 250 kg so the halyard will need to be in good condition.
Attach the chain hoist and come along in parallel with each other to the halyard and extend them fully.
Run two lines from the cockpit winches to the chain hoist and come along- tie a loose bowline around both lifts with both lines.
This will allow a lateral pull that can be moved up and down the lifts to position the engine more precisely.
Tie a strong piece of line from the lift ring on the front of the engine to the lift ring on the back of the engine and tie a loop in the middle of the rope-this is going to be a sling.
Extend the halyard until you can hook the come along to the sling on the engine and the chain hoist to the front lift ring through the companion way and through the square hole that is under the top stairs of the companion way.
Start taking the weight of the engine off of the motor mounts.
Use the lines running to the cockpit winches (lateral lines) to keep the come along from putting too much stress on the counter top.
As you raise the engine, keep adjusting the lateral lines.
Watch weight distribution on the boat, it causes the engine to shift.
When the weight of the engine is off of the motor mounts, remove the L brackets from the engine.
As the engine is moved forward, the chain hoist can be released and moved out of the square hole and brought through the big openning that the engine will be brought through.
At some point during the movement you may need to put the weight of the engine onto the forward rim of the pan that is under the engine to catch oil leaks-this pan and the oil pan of the engine are strong enough on my boat to do this without damage.
Move the come along to the back lift ring on the engine and start taking up weight-it will push on the counter, so you need to watch it.
Keep taking up weight with the come along and chain hoist and adjusting the lateral lines until the rear engine lift ring is at the front of the square access hole.
Set the engine on the cabin sole at this point to shift the chain hoist to the loop in the sling.
You can protect the sole with some boards.
Lift the engine through the companion way using the chain hoist as much as possible-it is really hard to winch the halyard with this much weight.
When the engine is outside of the cabin, one of the lateral lines can be moved to a hard point on the dock and used to pull the engine over to the dock as you lengthen the halyard.
Remember that the boat will heel as you swing the engine toward the dock-lengthen the halyard sparingly.
Just reverse the procedure for the re install, it is easier.
It is a good time to clean up the flanges of the transmission and get a good alignment on the engine and shaft.
This worked for me, there is lots of minor adjusting of all of the lines and hoists as it comes out.
Just follow your nose and it wil be fine.
Shoot me an email if you have any questions about my pull.
Have fun!
Kev
Date: August 19, 2010
From: Dana and Chris Trabka
Tyler,
When I had to have my Yanmar worked on, they cut out a portion of the interior cabin under the stairs and used the combination of the boom and assorted ropes and tackle to get the engine in and out. My engine is 8hp, single cylinder.
Chris
Date: August 22, 2010
From: Chris Waynee
We used a wood brace across the hatch, and come alongs to get them out. Use wood and carpet pieces to protect things. Strip off the jewlery, after that its just swearing. Usually takes half a day.
Chris
Date: October 13, 2010
From: Ken Schmidt
Still working on the re-power issue. I have the old Yanmar 2qm20 out of the boat. I too about 5 hours and a little creative work with a 4 x 4, come-a-long chain hoist, sling and dock cart, but we were able to get all 500 lbs of it out with minimal damage or alteration. I've been researching the re-power options and think we may have to jump up to a 3YM30 instead of the 20. While our old configuration seemed to work fine, the 2YM20 and 3YM30's have gear ratios of 2.20:1 or, more available, 2.61:1 (more or less without the specs in front of me). My old gear was 1.14:1 so even the higher rpms of the newer engines don't make up the difference. I have a 16" 3 blade prop with a 10 degree pitch(16R10). I've run the "prop calc." program and it looks like the 30 with a 2.20:1 would be the best match without changing out the prop.
A new prop would seem to be a necessity with either engine and the 2.61:1 gear the dealers want to sell me.
A new prop will run about $500.00 plus cost of a haul out or diver. We need to haul for zincs and bottom paint in the next year or so in any event but would prefer to put it off for as song as possible considering the major new engine investment.
I'd be happy to provide specifics on the engine removal mechanics for anyone who is faced with a need for do-it-yourself engine removal.
