Endeavour 37 Fuel Tank
Date: July 8, 2002
From: Tom shir1@msn.comHi, I'm in need of replacing the diesel fuel tank on my E-37 l978 vintage. I'm hoping someone has replaced one and can give me a fabricator or company that sells them. Also, since I plan on putting one in that is not as deep, the one now is nore than 3 feet in depth, has anyone installed one with less depth and any suggestions on how to make the job go smoothly. Thanks for any help.
Date: July 8, 2002
From: Lynn Olson nodakram@earthlink.netTom,
My engine maintenance guy, Don Glanz, came up with a very clever and less expensive solution.More than likely your leak is near the bottom of the tank; the part that lays in the bilge water. Don pulled the tank and took it to a fabricator who cut the bottom off where the leaks were located. He then had the fabricator weld a new bottom on the tank. This fix will also take care of your requirement to reduce the capacity. The only issue I would be concerned about is the need to fabricate something for the tank to sit on. I would avoid stainless steel due to electrolysis. You might be able to build a fiberglass box or even use some pvc pipe. Fuel weighs about 6.5 pound per gallon, ie 40 gal = 260#.
Date: July 8, 2002
From: Christopher J Land endvr37@juno.comI had to replace the water tank in my 1982 E37. Both the water and fuel tanks were made by the same company. I cannot remember the name of the manufacturer (I sold my E37 almost a year ago). I do know that the company still had the blueprints on the tanks. I think it was called Florida Tanks. For some reason I think that their facility in MO actually made the tank for me. All I did was get the name of the tank mfg off the plate on the tank, as well as the model number etc, and send it to them with a check. They shipped me a brand new tank that was a perfect fit.
Take a look at your current tank. It's the best place to start. If you can't find the info, let me know and I'll see if I can wade through all my old receipts for the tank I bought. By the way, I'm sure they could find some way to shorten the tank for you. I assume you are wanting to get the bottom of the tank off the bottom of the bilge. You may want to consider what I did. My tank was OK but not great. I removed it and took it to a "Rhino" spray on truck bed liner shop. They etched it chemically on the outside and then coated it. I lived aboard and cruised the Caribbean for 2 years and keep my extra volume of fuel without worry of rusting out the bottom of the tank from seawater against the bottom.
Date: July 8, 2002
From: Rick Martini rpmartini@worldnet.att.netTom,
The original builder for the E37 fuel and water tanks was Florida Marine Tanks. A new tank will cost you ~ $300 if my memory is correct. Here's their website:http://www.floridamarinetanks.com
Date: July 8, 2002
From: RTMLAW@aol.comThe fuel tank for my 1979 A-Plan recently began to leak. I found the original manufacturer in Florida is still in business. Their web site is: http://www.floridamarinetanks.com. They have the original templates and would build and deliver a new one for about $375 plus shipping. I found a fabrication shop in Pensacola (Eden lies just over the line in Alabama) that would copy the tank for about $500. I then found a local fabrication shop in Foley, Alabama that cut off the bottom two inches where the pitting and leak lay, welded on a new bottom and attached three two inch aluminum tubes to have the resulting tank be the same height, all for $75. The label of the original tank said it held 50 gallons. The resulting shortened tank actually held sixty gallons when filled to the brim.
Date: July 9, 2002
From: Allan Jones Ajonesanc@cs.comHi,
I have not replaced my fuel tank but just replaced my water tank this spring. The cost of tank replacement is about $7.00 per gallon for aluminum, the proper choice for fuel and $12.00 per gallon for stainless. You could just cut the bottom out of your fuel tank at the desired height, if the rest of the tank is still good.The tanks were made by Florida Marine Tanks, I believe, and they are still in business.
Any good welder that is familiar with marine materials and techniques should have no problem doing the job. Nigel Calder's maintenance book has a good section on the proper construction of marine tanks.
Date: July 9, 2002
From: John Esposito JWESPOSITO@aol.comHi Tom,
Had problem with both tanks on my 1980 End 37. The fuel tank sitting in the bilge rotted out . I had 6" cut off the bottom and and a new bottom weld on. I then fabed a bed out of pressure treated lumber on end so any water could pass freely under. Saved a lot of trouble and money! Don't forget to pressure test with soapy water at about 2 or 3 psi. On the water tank I cut top off and the baffles and had a liner made out of 1/4" polyethelene. The alum tank shell gave plenty of support to the thin poly. If you want new tanks try Luthers in Bristol, R.I.
Date: July 9, 2002
From: Hugh Joyner hjoyner@tampabay.rr.comThere's a fabricator here in Bradenton, FL that made an exact replica of my original E37 fuel tank, and charged about $350 for it. I don't have the name handy, but I can get it if still desired.
Date: July 9, 2002
From: Carl Hibbard Chgypsy@aol.comThe original company that made them, Florida Marine Tanks Hialeah, Fl fax 305-621-8524 (# Ck 1999 ) is still operational and I believe still has the specs, they just don't know what fuel gauge went in it. BTW if you have a new one built have inspection ports on each side of the baffles for clean out purposes.
<<Also, since I plan on putting one in that is not as deep>>
...........this will be x amount of work....remove the old go down and clean off the glass and build up a platform to hold your tank up. Between the new platform and the old forward bulkhead in the bilge if you size the tank correctly it shouldn't move around to much.Are you replacing the tank due to leaks ? I so probably the seams. Get the tank pumped out (Safety Kleen can do), or an electric pump into 5 gal cans...lotsa trips.Pull it out. Clean it out real well (steamed ?) The welds can be glassed over. The problem was that all the water in your fuel went to the bottom.
You might consider building a portable fuel polisher. That would keep the fuel clean and quite water free.
Date: May 15, 2007
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.comIn the May 2007 issue of Practical Sailor there is an in depth article exploring the ideal fuel tank replacement. It looks at the pros and cons of various materials, construction methods, and ways of minimizing corrosion in the first place.
Date: January 6, 2013
From: Sam ElliottHi Paul,
I have joined the ranks Endeavor 37 owners who have leaking fuel tanks. I would appreciate it if you could pass my questions along.
The boat yard has given a rough estimate of a days work to remove the tank. How does this fit with others experience? Seems like a lot of hours to me.
I am not sure what it will take to repair it but expect that welding patches may not be the answer. Are there new tanks available? How much do they cost and where does one find one?
Any thoughts from anyone are will be appreciated. Many thanks.
Date: January 6, 2013
From: Thaddeus Van GilderRemoving our fuel tank E-37 ketch consisted of removing 8 lag bolts, the vent, fill, fuel return, and fuel tap. It took a bit to empty the tank, but other than that it is an hour job. We tried to fiberglass the tank.... that was a failure. We got a used tank and fit that temporarily in the rear lazarette untill we buy a new tank.
Date: January 6, 2013
From: Mike Miller"Full day" is a total ripoff...you can take the fuel tank out by yourself in 30 minutes. Unscrew the 2x4's over the tank, unscrew the metal strap, and pull the tank out. I have done it twice...nothin' to it. (it's a good opportunity to scrub out the bilges too)
Usually it;s the bottom of the tank that's rotted out. We found that welders won't touch a fuel tank because they are afraid of an explosion...so we took a saws-all and cut the bottom out of the tank, washed it out thoroughly with detergent, and THEN had a welding shop put a new bottom on it, using 1/4" marine grade Aluminum plate...then we coated it in epoxy and re-installed it. Cost a fraction of what a new tank costs, and fit perfectly of course, without changing any of the connections. Should last another 30 years...
Hope this helps!
Date: January 6, 2013
From: Garth CormierI just replaced my tank last year (1980 E-37 "B"). The cost of the tank was around $650 and I did all the labor myself. Getting the old tank out was simple. The only thing I had the yard do was run new lines. Simply pump the old tank dry, remove lines and strapping... and drop the new tank in. This was on our Endeavour '37 "B".
I can get the name of the company in FLA who made the tank for me and the template number if that would be helpful? Fortunately, the old tank had their info and the tank template number on it... and they were still in business.
Date: January 6, 2013
From: Carl HibbardThe boat yard has given me a rough estimate of a days work to remove the tank.
I am thinking of the standard aluminum tank back by the engine, deep 55 gal.. Normally water/ salt water intrusion at the bottom, will attack the welded seams, I doubt the actual aluminum is shot. Your first job is to mark the exact position of the access plate, and the fuel level gauge as to position on the tank. Else is a bear to line back up correctly. (and the grunts doing the work normally don't think about it) Would also suggest a note with which hose is where. Now would be the time to think about replacing any fittings that shouldn't have been plugged into that aluminum tank.
I am assuming the boat will be out of the water so you will have the time $ to lift and move.
More time $ would also include pumping out residual fuel, storing in a barrel. How clean the barrel ??
You could do that, small electric pump through the access plate, would have to be able to "lift" perhaps 3 ft but shove out the hose to your storage container (s). Have a fan handy to blow the fumes out.
The tank removal itself is awkward but you would only need two grunts for about 5 minutes $, the rest is a one grunt job. $ Or do it yourself and call a pal when ready.
Next would be a clean out, probable removal of the fuel level sensor for additional access, which you could also do. You would need disposal containers for the crud, and you will be using fuel stirred in to cut it. I used an old small broom, picture a whisk broom with a long handle.
If you are having this job done, do include the above in the $.I am not sure what it will take to repair it but expect that welding patches may not be the answer.
Depends on what found, but I'm betting seams. I'd certainly ask around at several repair sources before making up my mind as to whom and what will be done to repair.
FWIW
Seams (once tank is cleaned out) can be coated with an epoxy mixture and let dry. OR with a Vacuum applied to the tank (EG all but one of the hose ports plugged as well as the fuel gauge hole and access hole). The vacuum will draw liquid into the porous leak in the seams. (this I have done) Then perhaps you might consider tack sanding the bottom and sides of the tank up perhaps a foot and actually wrapping in an epoxy applied fiberglass layer. (this too)Are there new tanks available?
Yes your originals were built in Florida at what I remember as" Florida Marine Tanks". But there are a lot of other tank makers. You do realize that there is no requirement that your tanks will be metal, many are fiberglass.How much do they cost and where does one find one?
Money?....I have no idea. Where? Depends on where you are, so again a variable. Your time to research. Good luck
Date: January 6, 2013
From: Joe WoodRather than have the tank re-welded, call Florida Marine tanks. They have moved to NC, phone (305) 620-9030. They have blueprints on file for all the Endeavour Tanks. Just have them make you a new one. They did my water tank in '05 and I got really good service from them. Did the actual replacement myself and saved a boatload of money. Pun INtended
Date: January 6, 2013
From: Chuck RoachI would say that 2 hours is more realistic for fuel tank removal. I removed my water tank in 1 hour. Also, I have heard and read that there was a rubber based product developed in WWII for sealing aircraft fuel tanks that is excellent. Although I no longer own my E37, my plan was to coat the outside bottom and sides a foot high with this product if a leak ever developed. A quick search on Google for "fuel tank sealer" showed some on Amazon, Eastwood, etc. There are one-part and two-part epoxy, fuel proof sealers. They are very inexpensive compared to a new tank. After sealing the tank, it might be wise to then spray some auto undercoating onto the bottom and lower sides of the tank.
Date: January 6, 2013
From: A. C. WhitlowWe've replaced the fuel and water tanks on Spider John. I did the work myself and it took me about 5 hours to drain and remove the tank. The boat was in the slip, so that included moving a drum to the boat, pumping out the fuel, disconnecting the tank and getting it out of the boat and ashore. That said, I had removed the water tank a year or two before, so I knew what to expect, but I would think the yard would as well.
I took the old tank to a machine shop and they built a new welded aluminum one for me - copied the old one but I had them make it 1" shorter so I could set it on some composite lumber - thinking the bottom could dry out from time to time. Not sure that's working, but losing an inch left me with a 53.75 gallon capacity. Plenty for Mr. Perkins.
Date: January 6, 2013
From: Paul UhlAluminum tanks in the bilge tend to sit in a moist environment. Many times salt water is left in the bilge and is very corrosive to aluminum.
When replacing the tank I'd recommend taking something like 'Starboard' strips and completely sealing it to the bottom of the tank in a fore and aft direction. This raises the tank off the bottom of the keel and allows the water to move away from the tank.
I would also protect any points where the tank might find abrasion, as well as sealing it. Typically aluminum creates it's own oxidized 'coating' but while it stands up to air very well, it doesn't resist water when submersed.
Date: January 6, 2013
From: John EspositoHad same problem. Bottom of tank rests on floor of bilge, gets wet and rots. cut off bottom and weld on a new one and using treated lumber build a study frame same hieght as bottom removed.
Date: January 6, 2013
From: Robert McWhorterA friend and I removed the tank of my 1979 Plan "A" in under two hours which included a break in the middle to drink a beer. My tank was at the time empty. After it was removed from the boat, I removed the inspection plate and pressure washed the interior as well as I could to get rid of the 25 years of sediment. I then took it to a welder who removed the bottom two inches and welded in a new bottom with a two inch "riser" welded to each side of the new bottom for the repaired tank to rest on in the bilge, thus keeping the bottom of the tank off the sole of the bilge. The total cost was $60 and some sweat. The hardest part was removing the fill hose from the tank and re-attaching it when the tank was replaced in the bilge.
I used the time that the tank was removed to clean the mostly inaccessible bilge thoroughly.
Date: January 6, 2013
From: A. C. WhitlowWell, that's only a three hour difference - maybe they will negotiate. One comment I didn't make, in my experience with both tanks - welding or patching weren't options. The aluminum had become so brittle I was able to shoot my home water hose through the water tank.
I was unable to find a plastic tank that would fit, and a custom plastic tank was much cash. I think the aluminum tanks were about $600 each - but I got a small break because they were late finishing them.
I've been wondering if Line X would work as a covering for the tanks, maybe up to about an inch below the top on the fuel tank, but maybe inside the water tank as well as outside. We don't drink the water in the tank, so no worries there. Wish I'd have thought of it when they were out of the boat.
Date: January 6, 2013
From: Sam ElliottMany thanks for your comments. I have also heard from another owner who said it took about two hours to remove a tank with time out for a beer. I think I need a new boatyard and hopefully bot a new tank.
And, many thanks for continuing to keep thus site alive. You provide a great service.
Date: January 7, 2013
From: Glenn RogersHey, Sam -- Don't Panic! It's not all that bad.
It would be easier if I knew if your boat was floating or in the yard, and also where you are located. I also have the1980 E37 Plan-B Sloop, I was in the worst possible situation -- in San Luis Obispo County, CA, and with my boat on a mooring, but I fixed it several years ago, and it's doing fine.
The hard part is getting the old fuel out. I used a nifty $20 steel barrel pump from Harbor Freight. Once it's empty, take pix of how your hoses are hooked up, disconnect them, and lift the tank out of the well. I'm mid-60's, fat and weak, but I had no trouble. The tank is clumsy, but not heavy. Put a pad down so that it doesn't scrape up your cabin sole, then replace your sole hatches and companionway "ladder," and you can easily get the tank up on the deck. I brought mine to shore in a dinghy after lifting it over the side.
If you are in a state and county where you can get it rewelded, great! I don't. I cleaned about three inches of crud out of it, finding multiple holes. Then I went down to the local professional auto paint store (PPG) and got stuff they make for plugging holes aluminum gas tanks. After it dried (according to the directions) I addressed the cause of the problem, which is that the tank sits in the bilge water. I used West System and fiberglass mat, and covered the tank from the bottom almost to the top, creating a barrier against the corroding water.
If I had been allowed to weld on the tank (we aren't in this part of California) I would have had the guy cut about four inches off the bottom, and set it a shelf of my creation.
New tanks are REALLY expensive, not to mention the shipping to CA, so I will try to get all the life out of this one that I can. If I ever move back to the United States, I'll get the welding done correctly.
Date: January 7, 2013
From: Glenn RogersI used a huge leaf bag around the tank to prevent the grease, etc., from messing up the dinghy, deck, etc.
I used a big strap to improve my grip in lifting the tank in and out of the cabin and dinghy, and to set it back into the bilge. While I had the tank out, I used the opportunity to jump into the bilge where it fits, and give it a good cleaning. In addition, you will have access to lots of things under the cabin sole (like wiring) that you can replace, reroute more efficiently, or what-have-you. Put the time that the tank is out of the bilge to good use!
If you don't have a clean-out port on the tank, this is the time to cut one!
Date: January 7, 2013
From: Irwin SusserHi Sam,
Had the same problem last year on my E37 plan B.
It was very easy to remove the tank, and I did it myself. I put a wire brush at the end of my drill and buffed the entire tank. Filled it with water and the leak, and any other imperfections were obvious. The leak was at the bottom, so I brought it to a welder, had him cut about 1/2 in off the bottom and had him weld in a new piece of aluminum..... I think it was 3/16 in... but u can check that on the endeavour site.
Any other pitting, however small, have the welder fill it in.
The whole job cost me about about 150 in labor, but I supplied the aluminum.
To replace the tank, was very straight forward, and again, just a one man job.
PS: when you lower to tank off the boat, put an old blanket there, and tie it to the lifelines, so you don't car scratch the hull.
Good luck.
Date: January 8, 2013
From: Vic EversfieldI had mine patched. It took a couple of hours to get old fuel out. I ended up replacing all of the fill, vent, feed, and return hoses because the oldones didn't want to come off. About 3 hrs for the hoses 3 hrs for out and i. I would suggest shopping around to get one made. The original man wanted 550 if I remember right