E32 Water Tanks
Date: October 10, 2001 Hi again.... Date: October 10, 2001 I have a 1979 32 and my forward tank has two inspection ports on the top. I usually leave them open in the Winter to try to keep air flowing. Inside my tank is a baffle and that is about it. You should be able to seal the leak with some epoxy and microballs. My tank has a clear tube which indicates the level of water in the tank. I haven't overfilled my tank so can't comment on whether it would back up in the galley sink. The top of the tank and the sink could be close to the same level. Date: October 11, 2001 On our E32 (1982), we have one inspection port more or less in the center of the tank lid. The baffel is cross shaped and is designed to reduce the water movement in the tank. Our lid is held on with screws every 2-inches or so and, I believe, a bead of sealant. I don't think it would be that difficult to remove the lid but I think it's size may be an issue if it needs to be removed. As far as the leak goes a little filler and gelcoat should do the job. Make sure you grind out the hole properly so that the repair work lasts. We don't have a water level tube but we do have a deck fill for the tank. It's located in the forward section of the anchor locker. I have overfilled it on occasion and can tell you that the foot pump faucet in the galley will overflow when sailing if it is. You can also get some moisture under the v-berth cushion but I don't believe the deck fill leaks. We try not to fill the tanks more than 80%. Date: October 11, 2001 Tom, After repairing the leak, I installed an inspection port in the top, then reattached the top using 5200 and screws every 6 inches. Three years later, and no leaks or problems. Our overflow is a clear plastic tube located in the forward port hanging locker. Why this does not lead overboard is beyond me. I will change this the next time I'm doing modifications. Date: October 19, 2001 Hi Paul !!!!! Date: October 19, 2001 Tom, I'd be very careful what ever is done here. Painting may not be the best solution. I can poll the forum but I'd recommend you go to a higher source such as someone who understands fiberglass water tanks. It may be best to have someone spray gelcoat on it after you make sure all the tabbing is in good condition. Date: October 19, 2001 Dear Paul, As to the interior resurfacing, I just got off the phone with my gel coat man... We will try to reline the interior after grinding off the old surface coating, then think about applying an epoxy paint to make it look nice. It is potable water, so this gets tricky. Flushing for months will be needed no matter what, due to the new surface blushing. Needless to say, I'm up to my arms again.....
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com
I have a small/slow drip coming from my fwd water tank. It is not the two hose fittings on the aft bottom of the tank. The water is dripping from the very aft bottom corner and has made a trail through my wine cellar and into the bilge. I am planning on removing the tank top and going from there. Can anyone tell me what I may find after the top is unsealed and removed ? BTW, the top never was quite sealed anyway, which made filling it a challenge to never over fill the tank, or get a wet interior from the over flow. Also, does your water tank over fill and then flow out the galley sink non-pressure spigot ? Mine does. Hmmmmmm.
From: Rob Chamberlain r.chamb@verizon.net
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com
From: Bradd marina@portcolborne.com
There are "baffles" inside the water tank. Our's came loose and were banging around so I took the top off to remove them. The top is sealed with 5200 or some other permanent seal so we cut the top off. To do this, I drilled holes at the corners and used a jig saw with the blade angled in to the max. Once the top is off you'll probably need to remove the baffles to make any repairs to the aft section. To do this we cut it out and removed it through the top.
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com
I pulled the top of my leaky water tank, and it came out nicely, but is indeed, too large to remove from the fwd compartment! I think a previous owner was in there, as there are paint chips on the bottom of the tank,paint peeling from the sides, and numerous corrosion spots on the side walls, as if it were built of steel, which it isn't. I need to sand the interior sides, and recoat with a water-sealant of some sort. Any ideas out there ???
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com
Our tank regularly collects little things that look like paint chips but I really don't believe that paint was used. I think what we're seeing is the 'residue' of the tabbing used to hold the boats grid and water tank baffles in place. Mine really looks and feel more like gelcoat. I find the corrosion spots interesting and am not sure why you would have those. Do they look like rust stains or could it be mold from moisture wicking into the hull?
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com
There is definitely paint chips and peeling paint inside my tank. Some of the chips are thumb nail size, others are a bit smaller, and a few bigger. There is paint curled and peeling on the inside walls, as well. The corrosion spots look like small brown circles, and have run marks below them. Mold is possible, and I will look into that, and there is a slime build up from the local well water or something. The tabbing is all good, and everything else in there is in good shape. I noticed the underside of the top is always wet with condensation, but was otherwise mold free. The top to platform joint was done (poorly) with a white vinyl sealant, and would leak onto the bed platform if I over filled the tank, making a wet mess down the cabin sole. This (I suspect) would also allow a mixing of the super humid air in the tank to enter the cabin, always making my cabin damp and prone to the white mold occurring in the grains of the wood trim. Especially the fwd section of the boat.
To be continued.............soon to be .....
Leak free !!
