E33 Engine Control Panel
Date: November 18, 1998
From: Steve Glick BOATSRI@cyberzone.net
I have removed the engine control panel (Yanmar) and the box within which it sat on the starboard side of my cockpit (1984 E33). I have not been able to locate a coaming box of the same dimensions (10.5" x 14") to replace it with so the question now becomes . . . how does one re-install the engine control panel? I have thought of fabricating a teak box but have fears of eventual splitting. Consequently, I am looking for suggestions from folks who may have already dealt with this situation or are just smarter that I.
Date: November 18, 1998
From: Jerry Bernath Bernathj@pocketmail.com
I am on my way to the Bahamas and currently am at Telemar Bay Marina, Indian Harbor Beach, Fl. I just got on the system for the first time in three weeks to find this message.
As you know, I have a 1988 E42 with a new Yanmar and I use the Max Boring control panel which fits where the Yanmar panel on the old engine was. I have the Edson pedestal with a standard Edson box on the Port side to hold my engine control panel. My guess is that Edson can supply this for the E43 as well.
Date: November 18, 1998
From: Jim McMordie jim_mcmordie@gilbarco.com
Steve, I haven't replaced an engine control box, but I have replaced the cockpit coming boxes on my E-32. The originals were plywood and rotten. I built new ones from 3/8" PVC (plastic) sheet. I routed and joined the corners, glued the boxes together with PVC cement, and sealed them with "Goop" sealant (a type of caulking that is a solvent base). They are leak proof and will never rot. Perhaps you could make an engine control box in a similar manner.
Date: November 18, 1998
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com
Edsion might be a good place to check, but since the panel is from Yanmar, try calling them. Also, I did notice that some of the supply stores in Chicago had catalogs from companies that make various sized, molded plastic back covers. As I remember there were more choices on opening sizes than depth. You might check with a good chandlery or yard.
Date: November 18, 1998
From: Carl Hibbard Chgypsy@aol.com
Hello Paul,
Has Steve Glick contacted Seaward Products? They make very decent panels (and boxes) for the entire Catalina (and several other) lines.. The last phone numbers that I knew were 310-699-7997 or 310-699-0908 (fax). Refer to a "Dave Miller". Easy to talk to and very knowledgible . . . The location is Whittier, CA.
I am thinking that the panels on at least three of the Catalina models are approximately the dimensions given. They have a nice 1" overlap edge from the actual panel onto the fiberglass surround.
Date: November 19, 1998
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com
Funny you should mention Seaward. I'm converting our alcohol stove to propane and had the darndest time finding them, however I did. You can reach them at:
Seaward Products
3721 Capitol Avenue
Whittier, CA
562-699-7997
Although I don't know if they do custom fabrication, I do know they do control panels.
Date: November 19, 1998
From: Roger Wright roger4th@swbell.net
How deep is this box?
My first suggestion would be to locate someone who can make a box for you. Where are you located? Unless you are in a very small town, there should be someone who can fabricate a fiberglass box in the dimensions you need. Look in the yellow pages ;under fiberglass or fiberglass repair. You can contact a company who supplies fiberglass material to people who might get the job done for you.
As an alternative, you can make a combination teak/plexiglass box. Make a teak frame of 1/2" teak to make up the depth of the box. Screw on a piece of plexiglass to the back of the frame to mount the engine control panel. Use a piece of plexiglass on the front of the frame to mount the box to the coaming. Seal the plexiglass to the teak with silicone or other suitable material. An alternative to plexiglass is a product called "Starboard". It is easier to work with than plexiglass and available from the same supplier as the plexiglass. Hope this helps.
Date: November 19, 1998
From: Ed Yusis Yusise@aol.com
Teak would be my choice.... but you can make a fiberglass box easy enough. Make a mold either of wood, heavy cardboard or what ever. It the material is thin enough, just fiberglass over it and sand and paint. If you perfer not have the mold part of the finished product, use something like wax paper between the fiberglass and the mold. Fiberglass is fairly easy to use , mold and finish. Hope this gives you some ideas.. My speaker boxes in the cockpit are made of teak and have provided several years (>5 years) of use with no problems.
Date: November 20, 1998
From: Steve Glick BOATSRI@cyberzone.net
Thanks all! The panel part is easy--available from Yanmar. It's the box that's the problem, but now I have some good suggestions. The depth of the box is 4" at the top, tapering down to three at the bottom. I am really trying not to fabricate from scratch and will be calling Seaward Products today. Edson is not too far up the road, and I didn't even think to call them. Thanks to all. Keep those cards and letters coming.
Date: November 20, 1998
From: Carl Hibbard Chgypsy@aol.com
Hello Group,
I have responded directly with Steve Glick on the following. The numbers shown on my original posting to him were apparently for the Stove and Water heater side of the business. The last "Panel" numbers that I had were 818-968-2117 and 818-330-5442 (fax) Seaward Products 1560 Salt Lake City of Industry, CA 91795 and the Dave Miller was correct...
Date: October 2, 1999
From: Carl Hibbard Chgypsy@aol.com
I think you will find that Stewart Warner gauges are exact copies for most of the Endeavour sizes/models instruments. However !! If you have the Yanmar engine I believe that a standard Westerbeke panel was used. I presume that you have pulled the panel off and looked for labeling.
Tachometer
Date: March 11, 2000
From: Paul Hotz paulhotz@erols.com
Paul,
I own a 1979 End 32 which never had a tach.Finally decided it might be nice to have one. The engine is a Yanmar 2qm20h(raw water cooled). I looked in the engine manual and see where the placement for the sending unit goes. The point of attachment presently has a small plug covering the threaded hole (above the flywheel). My local dealer for Yanmar sent me a sender with a threaded nut as a means of attachment. Also the unit has a small wire harness with an extra wire (black). My boat's wire harness has spade connectors. If need be I could modify the connectors. My question is: do I have the correct sender? I've asked the dealer but they told me it may take a few days for the answer?? I thought if you or anyone else in the forum has any experience or knows what the proper unit looks like, I'd be that much ahead of the game when next I hear from the dealer. Thanks for your help and keep up the great work on the site. Paul Hotz, svLucky Win II.
Date: March 14, 2000
From: Rob Johnson robjude@shianet.org
Paul
I did the same thing two years ago on my 79. Yes there is a threaded unit that fits into the backside of the engine. I do not remember if I had to cut the connectors, but it seems like the wiring pieces didn't go together the way I wanted them to. Old and new didn't match some how.
I do have the service manual for the 2QM20(H) here at home that has the wireing diagram and other info for the tach. IF you want, get me a fax # or perhaps I could scan the info and email it to you. let me know.
Date: March 14, 2000
From: Dave Wright Dgw1@aol.com
Paul,
I used to have an Endeavor 32 and still receive mail from the forum. My boat was a 1977 with a 2qm20 Yanmar with no tach. The information that I had was that the Tach was a mechanical pickup on the starboard side of the engine. I consulted with a gentleman named Jim Corse out of Wilmington, NC who is supposed to be the best diesel mechanic on the East coast. His response was that mine was a mechanical pickup which was fairly expensive (about $150-175), but an alternative would be to go to a car mechanic and get a pickup installed on the alternator and use a car tach which would be much less expensive. Apparently the 20 HP Yanmars had several different configurations for the tach pickup which may be why the dealer is not sure. Hope this helps,
Date: March 15, 2000
From: Luther Carrier Lelair@aol.com
Skipper,
Save for self from the tech manuals and have your Tach wired to your alternator. Your Yanmar dealer can help you out. I have installed tachs before here in the ST. Pete Florida area with no problems The cost of taking the alternator to the Yanmar dealer and having them install a 'pig tail' is about $15.00. Then I just connect the tach to the 'pig tail' and there you go.
Control Panel Short
Date: April 3, 2000
From: Steve Sic trigger300@aol.com
Paul,
Maybe you can help me with this problem. I just installed two freshly charged batteries this morning in my 1980 E-32 per my Schematic's and they both show full charge on the boats voltmeter, however as soon as I turn on any of the switchs on my Panel, I get an audible alert and light from the cockpits "chrg" indicator light. Does anyone have a suggestion to what is happening. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Date: April 4, 2000
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com
Steve,
Is the alarm coming from the engine control panel in the cockpit? If so, the key position might be in the "on" position. I know that when we start or shut down our engine, there is an alarm. This "audible" feature can also be switched on or off--we keep it on. Let me know.
Date: April 5, 2000
From: Steve Sic trigger300@aol.com
Paul
Yes the cockpit control panel is the source of the audible sound/light. However the Key is not in the ignition. I have in the past totally depleted my batteries and never had this happen. Like I said the alarm dosent sound until a load is applied to the battery banks. Thanks
Date: April 5, 2000
From: Don Shepard stoneware@journey.com
I had this happen on my Bristol one time and it was a bad battery cable ground side. Tested okay until load put on then every thing went dim. I also checked the regulator box and found that it needed to be replaced it still worked okay but was corroded I beleive it was the original one. I also cleaned all my connections. When I started to really notice was my Ham radio was starting to FM on me because battery's were dropping. I hope this helps you it did me. I would like to know what the fix was for you now that I have a 32' Endeavour.
Date: April 5, 2000
From: Rollyn Trueblood funding@earthlink.net
Dear Steve:
That happened to me once. In my case, I had crossed a wire and resulted in my panel sounding and nothing else working until I checked the wiring and rearranged the wires. If I remember correctly, electricians have some failsafes built into electrical
schematics to protect the machines against me. Best wishes
Date: April 6, 2000
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com
The swithch is in the on position ..internally if nothing else. With a little WD-40, insert the key a few times, rotate it a little and hopefully, the internal workings will behave. Otherwise, it's to the parts store.
Date: April 6, 2000
From: Dean Beckman Dhbeckman@aol.com
Steve,
Your electrical problem sounds like it could be a loose ground wire in your circuit. If your motor still turns over I don't think it would be the main engine ground. You could check the grounding on your accessory panel or the engine panel. Hope this helps in your search for the problem.
Date: April 9, 2000
From: Steve Sic trigger300@aol.com
Thank you for your feedback, I got an electrician (my Father) and we traced down the problem with a meter, The ground wire between the Battery and the grounnd strap was the culprit. The ground strap was loose and the cable frayed. I tightened the strap up, and replaced the cable she works fine. Again thanks to everyone for the feedback.
