Alternator on E32
Date: January 5, 2004
From: Andre D'Elena andredelena@netscape.net
I have a 1979 E32, 2QM20 w/what is presumably the original alternator (this site says it's a 35Amp Hitachi.) First questions, there are three wires coming off the back (B, L & E.) E=Earth or Ground right? B=Battery so what's up with the L? The schematics I have say it's goes to the tachmeter (amongst other things) but I'm still not sure?
This leads me to my next question(s): I am presently trying to map out a plan for improving my battery banks and charging system. I don't have enough money to replace the alternator though so I'd like to work with what I have already, for now anyway. I plan to set up two isolated banks, one exclusively for starting and the other to feed the house. What can I use to monitor or regulate their voltage separately and effieciently? I've heard of Adverc and ofcourse Guest products that do this. Anyone out there use these products?
Finally, what wire would I use to sense with (B or L?) The information I've gleaned from Guest is that there is an AC and DC wire on some alternators (DC going to the battery and AC used as a "sense" wire) but that doesn't square with what's coming off of my alternator? Will I have to change my alternator to do this properly??
Thanks in advance for any information.
Date: January 7, 2004
From: Lou Candelaria Ancianoman@aol.com
Andre, my name is lou and I have a 77 32' endeavour. My electrical system consists of two
8D batteries, a Guest battery charger with an APD energy monitor. I have a selector switch
with 4 positions, Bat 1, Bat 2, Both and Off. I also have a an Isolater to prevent back drain from each battery. As for the alternator, it's a one wire 65 amp marine alternator with a built in spark aresstter backing plate to prevent sparks. the alternator has a built in regulator and no external reg is required. I have no Idea of the alternator you have but it sounds like an automotive aternator with an external regulator. I would say, go with the Marine. it's much safer, easier to use and install, has the spark aresstting backing plate and it's really inexpensive. If you need any specs or company names just drop a line
Date: January 7, 2004
From: Robert Lightbourn RLightb240@aol.com
I recently upgraded my (1987 E42) elect syst by adding a 2500 watt inverter, Link 2000R, three stage smart regulator and heavy duty 8D AGM Batteries, new 125amp High output alternator, and over 300' of 1/0 copper wire. Following the instructions given to me by Jack Rabbit Marine, Stamford, Conn. which I highly recommend.((203)-961-8133, no I don't work for him.)
Jack is an excellent source of information as well as a truly nice helpful guy. True I spent nearly $4,000. But his helpful attitude was what convinced me into purchasing the parts from him. I truly don't regret it. I am sure he would be able to recommend the proper and most cost efficient way for you to acomplish your goal. You may or may not mention my name to him. Good luck
Date: January 7, 2004
From: Carl Hibbard Chgypsy@aol.com
Hello Andre,
You Said: I have a 1979 E32, 2QM20 w/what is presumably the original alternator (this site says it's a 35Amp Hitachi.) First questions, there are three wires coming off the back (B, L &E.) E=Earth or Ground right? B=Battery so what's up with the L? The schematics I have say it's goes to the tachmeter (amongst other things) but I'm still not sure?
Reply: Certainly the B is Battery which is the alternator charging output. The L would normally be the "lamp" which on most "vehicles" would also be the field lead (turn it on when ignition key turned on). I have never seen a lamp lead used for a tach. The E lead could be energize or "sense", the letter E in electrics is also voltage( ergo how much do I turn on)...it is most definately NOT a ground, the case is the ground.
NOTE: Using a voltmeter..digital better, does not have to be expensive, IE Harbor Freight $6, the tach lead should show 1/2 battery DC voltage while running IE about 7 volts. If you switch to AC you will see some wierd voltages lower at idle higher at cruise speeds which will look quite steady, you are actually looking at a frequencyand your meter will not show a great change.
I am presently trying to map out aplan for improving my battery banks and charging system. I don't have enough money to replace the alternator.
REPLY a 55 or 61 amp Hitachi would be available at any junkyard worth the name for probably a buck an amp.... But .....would your engine take the load, particularly if the batterys were quite low. If I recall the engine numbers correctly you only have a 3 cyl 23 HP engine. You would still have to run for a fairly long time at a fairly high Rpm to charge back up your potential 2 house batterys.
I plan to set up two isolated banks, one exclusively for starting and the other to feed the house. .......<<>> Finally, what wire would I use to sense with (B or L?)
?? So apparently you are going to use a big battery switch to isolate ? If so just hook up a cigeratte lighter to the output of the big battery switch and use your voltmeter to check what you want to check by bank rather than a dedicated switch arrangment....or mount a specific meter the same way, it would reflect what your battery switch was set to.
Date: January 8, 2004
From: John Krevis jpkrevis@hotmail.com
Andre,
I just changed my original alternator (35amp Hitachi) which had an internal regulator, to the Balmar 70-80amp with the external ARS4 regulator. This gives me more charging punch for my two golf batteries I put in the keel area. I installed a Balmar Duo-charge to keep my start battery charged as well. I also installed seperate battery switchs for start, house, and a parellel. Installed a Link 20 battery monitor to measure voltage and current in and out of the battery banks. I traced out my old wires on the alternator, can't find my orignial paper, but I think I remember most of them. but here it goes.
The B terninal has a larger red wire that went into the factory wiring harness and ended up at #30 on the starter switch and the postive terninal of the starter.
The L was a red/wht wire went in to the wiring harness and to the generator light on the instrement panel.
E went in the harness and to gnd.
The smaller white went to the tac and the blue wire was the sense, there was also a larger white wire that went from the starter solonid to #17 on the starter switch.
I hope I helped you and dident confuse you to much.
