E40 Internal Halyards and Sheaves
Date: June 12, 2000
From: John Bartoszek jbartosz@symbol.com
Paul,
|I didn't see a specific topic on conversion of an E-40 to internal halyards in the forum so I thought I'd send this to you. I would like to convert my E-40 to internal halyards. My major concern is that would put 2x the load on a single sheave. Does anyone have experience with doing this? and, if so, would the existing sheave take the load or do I have to upgrade the sheave/mounting? Any help would be appreciated.
Date: June 14, 2000
From: Tom Powers TomPowers@sunnuclear.com
John,
I have an E40 with internal halyards. I did not make the conversion, but I have taken my mast down and re-pulled halyards etc. My boat has four internal halyards and a spinnaker halyard. The single sheaves hold fine. As I stated, I have had my mast down and dis-assembled the entire mast head. The sheaves showed very little wear, and I did not replace either them or the axles. Let me know if you wish any further information.
I would like to hear about your windlass install. I do not have a windlass, and have considered that as a future project. Good luck.
Date: June 15, 2000
From: Sam Woolsey SamWoolsey@aol.com
John,
When I purchased my E-40 two years ago, only one halyard was internal. Subsequent to a lightning strike, I had the opportunity to examine the stick as it lay on the ground getting new wiring and discussed the internal halyard thing with the boatyard's rigger.
Putting the main and headsail halyards internal frees up 1 pair of sheaves for other uses such as a cruising spinnaker. As to stress, I think that a single 1/2 to 5/8 inch pin for the sheaves will handle the stress of a halyard.
The primary cautionary note is the positioning of the exit holes on the mast. They must be sufficiently separated and the holes rounded so that structural stress on the stick is minimized. I think that the exit holes on my stick are separated by at least 18 in and are rounded.
Date: June 15, 2000
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com
Sam (and John),
I'd like to make one cautionary note about your comment about using a sheave for a cruising spinnaker:
>Putting the main and headsail halyards internal frees up 1 pair of sheaves for
>other uses such as a cruising spinnaker.
It's generally not a good idea to use a sheave for a spinnaker of any kind. Most masts will have a bail on the top leading edge for attaching a block to. Your spinnaker sheet should be lead through this block rather than the sheave. The reason is that, unlike a jib or genny whose head and luff is held in place by the headstay, the position of the spinnaker (head) will move freely relative to the masthead "twisting" off to starboard, port, or forward. This causes a lot of chafe to your spinnaker halyard if it is lead through the masthead sheave, where it will abrade on the metal fittings and masthead.
Your other note about locating the exit holes on the mast is one of the most important items when converting to internals. Eliminating friction at these as well as other points when leading lines aft is the other.
I will myself be replacing our wire-to-rope with all rope this summer, leaving enough extra line to eventually convert to internals and lead them aft.
Date: June 15, 2000
From: John Bartoszek jbartosz@symbol.com
Paul,
Thanks for the input. As it turns out, I already have an external block and halyard on my mast. I do not intend to relocate that to the sheave (your input confirmed my intentions). Converting to internal halyards will allow me to run an extra halyard on the aft side of the mast for whatever.
Date: June 16, 2000
From: Sam Woolsey SamWoolsey@aol.com
Paul (and John),
Good point about the cruising spinnaker and you are right, on the E-40 masthead there are 4 points for attaching blocks, 2 forward and 2 aft. I have a halyard attached forward which I use for all manner of things besides a cruising spinnaker, such as lifting a dink out of the water for placement on the foredeck.
One other point, I just remembered about the E-40 mast, there is a metal tube that runs from the wiring channel behind the sail track on the aft part of the mast through the center of the mast to the forward part for the wiring for the steaming light. You have to be careful of the routing of your halyard through the inside of the mast so that you have a fair lead from top to bottom. There was also something at the top of the mast that caused me difficulty in routing the halyards inside the mast, but I can't recall what it was.
I have exchanged my wire/rope main halyard for all rope and have enough left to lead aft, but haven't figured out the routing, winch selection, placement, etc. One of these days, I'll get to that one.
