Date: February 15, 2005
From: Brad and Stephanie Coy coyba@aol.com
Looking for anyone who had installed an anchor windlass on and E35.
Thanks for the help.
Brad and Stephanie Coy
s/v Mystic Dancer
Date: February 15, 2005
From: Jim Madden merc240d@netzero.com
I didn't install the one on my E35, but I can see how its done. I can get some pics too.
Recommendations: Mine is in the anchor locker and suffers from lack of handling room. The lid closes over it. Windlass is on a spacer block of 1-2" , but the chain still gets stuck between the housing and the gypsy. Also doesn't have a capstans or a clutch, which I feel are helpful. The windlass is bolted through the anchor locker bottom with backing plates. I would suggest using either a full backing plate to cover all bolts or large backing plates. Mine are more like over sized washers of aluminum stock.
Suggest a style that can be mounted through the lid to the chain locker. Makes it usable without the locker lid being in the way.
Control switch is mounted and bedded through the locker bottom. Control relay is just inside the v-berth next to the underside of anchor locker. and cables are run down and through the port side down in the bilge area some and up to the panel, where it has a thermal auto- resetting breaker. No switch! (not a good idea, future fix)
Jim Madden
s/v Blessing
Kirkland, WA
Date: February 18, 2005
From: Stan Ownes owens@tampabay.rr.com
Brad,
I installed an anchor windlass on our E35 eight years ago and have not experienced any problems. The anchor locker on our 1983 is very shallow compared to later models and this required that I pipe the chain into the very fwd bow compartment. The below deck motor was mounted with a stainless backing plate and covered with a vinyl upholstered wooden box. This cover was for cosmetic purposes only; neither the motor or box cover has presented any head-banging problems in the V berth.
The attached photos show the installation.
 Deck View 1 is the way the chain is normally stowed. The chainpipe is 2" PVC attached at the top with a screw and sealed at the bottom of the anchor locker with 5200. Due to the pipe angle the PVC was a very tight fit and needed very little support to keep it in place. The top end PVC is cut at an angle that permits the cover to close over the open end to minimize water intrusion. The PVC is notched on the fwd side to allow the chain to drop slightly below the top.
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 Deck View 2 shows the chain ready to drop or retrieve the anchor. A temporary PVC extension is attached to the top of the chainpipe to better guide the chain when operating the windlass. This has been a "temporary" fix until I can devise a better solution. Suggestions are welcome.
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 Deck View 3 is a close-up showing the PVC extension that is normally attached to the top chainpipe when dropping anchor.
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 Interior shows the chainpipe, motor cover and circuit breaker. I mounted a dedicated battery just fwd of the holding tank and ran wiring (#6) back to the engine compartment to permit alternator charging (via switch) when required.
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Stan and Nancy Owens
s/v Intermezzo
St. Petersburg, FL
Date: March 1, 2005
From: Margaret Busby margaret_busby@hotmail.com
I installed a Maxwell 1200 Elec. Windlass on my E-35 four years ago. First, the manual windlass which was on deck was removed. The area under it had been reenforced with a 1/2" thick stainless steel plate running the full width of the bow. The new windlass & chain stop were installed on deck in the same place, behind the anchor locker. The motor is below in the V-berth just aft of the chain locker bulkhead. This installation has worked well. Because the chain runs over the top of the chain locker cover, before I raise anchor I have to remember to be sure to have enough some slack in the chain to allow the cover on the chain locker to be opened so I can knock down any "chain castles" that form down in the locker as the chain comes in.
Maggie Busby
s/v Kismet
La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico