Date: January 28, 2014
From: Bob & Pat Sikora
We have a 1989 42 center cockpit sloop. The gate stanchion on the port side has been damaged and although we made a partial repair we need to replace it. The problem we see is that the backing plate is not reachable - it's behind and above the galley cabinets. To reach it we would have to remove the cabinets! Has anyone had to do this, and if so we would appreciate any tips or hints we could get. We think (and hope) there might be a captured bolt on the underside of the backing plate but there is no way to tell.
Date: January 28, 2014
From: Matthew Nurre
We have a 1988 E42' here in Chicago and we replaced all of our gates and stanchions 2 years ago when we replaced our lifelines. The backing plates do have a set screw holding the metal backing plate in place. Unfortunately Endeavour did not use a stainless material so the bolts that hold the stanchion in place can be a real pain to remove from the backing plate. We were able to get all out without breaking and thus did not have to remove cabinetry. We had Garhauer fabricate the new stanchions and they were perfect although they needed a sample gate and regular stanchion to duplicate. Care should be taken when loosening the phillips head bolt heads as the heads will strip, most of ours were trashed when we were finished so we replaced with stainless hex (allen) head bolts. West Marine or Grainger.com.
Good Luck.
Date: January 28, 2014
From:Allen Lofland
We found that the section over the counter could be pulled out enough by removing some teak plugs screws and using a scissor type car jack to actually lift the deck enough to pull that unit toward the center of the boat this gave just enough room to do the work.
It's been years so take this with caution .
I will say that through the boat I found that if you learn to remove teak plugs and replace them you can pretty much disassemble almost any thing in the Endeavor. It just takes a strong will. Time. And lots of sanding And varnish.
When refinishing the woodwork teak remember—Minswax early American Stain. Experiment with it. Scrub the old teak with amonia. Sand stain Rubbed effect varnish.
Hope this helps
Date: January 28, 2014
From: Jerry Bernath
The cabinet above the gally stove is fairly simple to unscrew & pull out. You can then reach the backing plates(which are likely rusted) and the. 4 3-1/2 inch bolts on each stanchion base.
Date: January 28, 2014
From: Mike Myers
My 1986 42cc stations were bent in hurricane Sandy. To remove them I simply unscrewed them. On my boat the backing plates are glassed in & threaded so there was no need to remove any cabinets. But the rear pulpits had nuts inside so I had to disassemble part of the aft cabin. To determine if your plates are threaded look up in behind the electrical panel. You should be able to see one.
Date: January 28, 2014
From: Steve Steakley
I replaced all of my port side stanchions and gates, I sent my old ones to Garhauer Marine and they made exact copies very reasonable! I have a 87 42' and there were bolted to a steel plate embedded under the caprail so there were no nuts on the other end, a few of the bolts broke when I was removing do I had to drill out the bolt and re-tap to the next larger size bolt.
Date: January 28, 2014
From: Bob Lightbourn
On my 87 42' Endeavour, hull number 203. I had to get access to the underside of the deck . The backing plates had one screw through the middle of a plain 1/4 inch steel plate, the plate was held by polyurethane caulk (and I suppose the one screw held it in place till the poly set). The four screws that actually held the stancion were tapped into the 1/4" plate. Actually 3 of the four were, the fourth one missed the plate. They were however somewhat rusted. Try using an impact driver that you hit with a hammer as it turns.That other than prayer may be the only thing that works .. Good luck
Date: January 29, 2014
From: Ed Mahoney
I have done that.
The stations on my E-42 have a soft Metal Backing plate glassed in. I am not sure this is standard, when they built mine, they knew ahead of time that the stations would be added at the selling dealer due to transport restrictions. I have removed and rebedded them, without removing the cabinets.
I have however removed the cabinets for other reasons, and it is not a very difficult task. The cabinet over the stove is held in place with some long, 3" approx. #8 sheet metal screws, it is a pretty tight fit, so when the screws are out, it will not fall. There were 8 if I remember correctly, 4 on each side, they are reachable from inside the cabinet, mine had small wooden plugs over the caps. I was able to see them looking up from the bottom with a flashlight and a mirror. You need to be careful when removing it. I was able to get it past the teak cap on the bulkhead next to the stove, but it was very tight.
I was in there while redoing the Genoa track and found that all of the thru bolted screws from the cap rail and track had compound holding the nuts and lock washers in place, and they had small aluminum backing plates also held in with compound.
Remove the trim, it is attached with small Brads, I have an electric staple gun that I used to replace them, but you can do it manually. There are also some larger trim pieces that support the headliner and the other cabinets, I removed anything that looked like it could get damaged. Plan to revarnish after you put everything together and plug the holes.
Good Luck
Date: January 29, 2014
From:Frank Becking
I have a 1986 42 center cockpit sloop. One week ago, I finished the work with all stanchion on my starboard side, also the gate. Because I'm in Tahiti, I couldn't find new stanchions, so I built the stanchions by myself. The material I found on a working place for old inox metal. Welding and drilling I could do on board.
It was hard and tricky to bring out the old stanchions screws. When I saw the screws, I was afraid that there were nuts or a plate below and would have to rebuild the cabinet. But then I had luck. I put the new stanchions on, put the old screws back in and it was fixed like before.
Now I think, that the plates are fixed, so it's possible to remove the stachions without rebuilding the cabinet. I did that with all stanchions and had no problem with that.
Friendly regards